Messy Vegan Cook

Nang Htike for Tea Leaf Salad in Yangon

Nang Htike

Bogyoke Aung San Street (between 46th and 47th)
Yangon
Myanmar (Burma)

I visited Nang Htike after reading the Vegetarian Survival Guide to Burma, and it's well worth stopping in. The English isn't tip top, but thut-thut-lo (Burmese for vegetarian) is understood. My visit was during a school break, and there was a teenager with good enough English to ensure my food was vegan.

My first introduction to Myanmar's national dish of pickled tea leaves was at Nang Htike, and I couldn't get the stuff in my trap fast enough. So good, and the best version of this salad I've had during my experience in Myanmar thus far.

Nag Htike Lunch

Pickled tea leaf salad, pickles, soup, and tomato salad at Nang Htike

The dish was incredibly salty and came served with fried shallot, peanuts, tomato, lettuce, toasted split yellow beans, and deep fried beans. Sesame oil featured as well as a pleasant and funky taste of fermentation. Must try.

I like tomatoes, but for me to really be into them then they need to be cooked, so I surprised myself when I ordered the raw tomato salad. Thinly sliced tomato and shallots with green bird's eye chillies, fried garlic, peanuts, sesame seeds, and lime comprised this refreshing dish.

Go to Nang Htike if:

  • You want to eat some delicious Burmese cuisine away from the company of too many tourists.
  • You're into the fermented tea leaves. Their version of the salad is excellent.

P.S. Carnival atmosphere

By the way, I tried to return a second time for dinner but the Thadingyut festival (end of Buddha lent and festival of lights) celebrations at that end up town distracted me. Mostly because I found candy floss and got stuck watching these human powered (no engine whatsoever) ferris wheels.

Pay special attention to the left side of the wheel after the men climb up the centre and the ride begins to spin.

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