Nang Htike
I visited Nang Htike after reading the Vegetarian Survival Guide to Burma, and it’s well worth stopping in. The English isn’t tip top, but thut-thut-lo (Burmese for vegetarian) is understood. My visit was during a school break, and there was a teenager with good enough English to ensure my food was vegan.
My first introduction to Myanmar’s national dish of pickled tea leaves was at Nang Htike, and I couldn’t get the stuff in my trap fast enough. So good, and the best version of this salad I’ve had during my experience in Myanmar thus far.
Pickled tea leaf salad, pickles, soup, and tomato salad at Nang Htike
The dish was incredibly salty and came served with fried shallot, peanuts, tomato, lettuce, toasted split yellow beans, and deep fried beans. Sesame oil featured as well as a pleasant and funky taste of fermentation. Must try.
I like tomatoes, but for me to really be into them then they need to be cooked, so I surprised myself when I ordered the raw tomato salad. Thinly sliced tomato and shallots with green bird’s eye chillies, fried garlic, peanuts, sesame seeds, and lime comprised this refreshing dish.
Go to Nang Htike if:
- You want to eat some delicious Burmese cuisine away from the company of too many tourists.
- You’re into the fermented tea leaves. Their version of the salad is excellent.
P.S. Carnival atmosphere
By the way, I tried to return a second time for dinner but the Thadingyut festival (end of Buddha lent and festival of lights) celebrations at that end up town distracted me. Mostly because I found candy floss and got stuck watching these human powered (no engine whatsoever) ferris wheels.
Pay special attention to the left side of the wheel after the men climb up the centre and the ride begins to spin.
Wow, salad made from tea leaves? I would love to try that! Was also jealous hearing about your shan tofu experiences, I’ve always wanted to try it! Apparently you can make it yourself but it sounds extremely complicated…
Myanmar is one of the only countries in the world to eat tea leaves. They are fermented and very salty. There’s place in London called Mum’s House, a Burmese online supermarket, that sells it. Shan tofu is the easiest thing you will ever make https://www.messyvegancook.com/2014/07/17/burmese-tohu-soy-free-tofu-from-myanmar/
Thanks for the tips! Oh wow, that doesn’t sound hard at all! I met a Burmese chef the other day and asked him if he knew how to make shan tofu and he launched into a huge explanation that involved a million different steps and at least 7 days (he was talking about using raw chickpeas rather than flour). I was so overwhelmed! Your recipe doesn’t sound too hard at all. Yay, I can finally try it! 🙂
I don’t know what method they use in Burma, but I didn’t notice any big difference between that and what I make at home. I’d love to try making it from scratch though!